October 14, 1996
Puerto La Cruz
Venezuela
Dear Friends,
Tonight is rather hot and humid, there is no breeze at all in
the Bahia Redonda Marina. The boat is perfectly still in her
mooring and the only sound is the snap, crackle and pop of the
barnacles trying to build a condominium on my hull. We have been
sitting here in the marina for almost a month now (far too long). Back home
the leaves will have changed, the nights will be rather cool, time
to turn the clock back and settle in for another winter. This
will be our first 'endless summer'. I'm certain I will not miss
the snow and cold but it is a strange feeling and on nights like
this a cool breeze would be welcome. Speaking of turning the clock back,
it's been quite a while since I last wrote so let me go back to
the end of August and Puerto Cabello.
With provisioning completed, tanks filled and zarpe's (port
clearance papers) in order, Pirate Jenny and Syncronicity headed
out of the harbour to continue our journey east. In order to
avoid the strong easterly trade winds we took advantage of the
effects of sun and land have on wind. During the day the hot sun warms
the air over land faster than over water this causes the air to
rise and creates a sea breeze. This breeze increases throughout
the day and by afternoon combines with the easterly trade winds
to creates a very strong north east wind. During the night the
process is reversed resulting an area of much diminished winds
for some 20 miles offshore.
Syncronicity off the coast of
Venezuela
The Caribbean coast of Venezuela is very mountainous with
spectacular cliffs plunging into the sea. We did not want to miss
seeing this beautiful coastline so planned short hops along the
coast that would enable us to take advantage of the wind patterns
by leaving early in the morning, at or just before sunrise and anchoring by
noon. Our first day out of Puerto Cabello was a very short hop of about
10 miles to a small, well protected bay called Cienage de
Ocumare. We left the marina much later than planned and had a
very bumpy ride through the building afternoon seas but, even
banging through four foot waves could not loosen the tenacious
hold of the marine life on the knotmeter impeller. Sitting in a marina
with very little water flow even the best of antifouling paints
can not keep a carpet of marine life from coating the bottom of
the boat. When leaving I try to find a nearby anchorage where I
can dive down and clean the bottom before continuing on. After
anchoring we declared happy hour and watched the sunset, cold
beer in hand, from the deck of 'Syncronicity'.
The next day was a rather rare cloudy, rainy day. We had
decided the night before to stay at Ocumare to clean boat bottoms
and do a little spearfishing on the reef. All in all it was a
quiet day and a welcome contrast to the hustle and bustle of the
preceding two weeks in port. With the cleaning done, a working knotmeter
and after a BBQ hamburger dinner (the fishing wasn't too successful) we
headed off to sleep early with the alarm set for 5:00 am.
At first light we had anchors lifted and motored slowly
through the channel leading past the reefs to open water. We had
about 30 miles to travel to our next anchorage at Bahia Puerto
Cruz (a small bay along the coast, not the town of Puerto La
Cruz). It is hard to describe the coastline. My thesaurus has
lots of good alternatives for beautiful, spectacular and
wonderful but to travel slowly about a half mile offshore,
beneath the towering lush green mountains is an experience to
which words can not do justice. Behind each headland hides a small
bay, village or river outlet. The mountains are covered with a
variety of plant life from towering mango trees, palm and banana
in the bays to various deciduous plants interspersed with cactus
plants higher on the hillside. The coastline is so covered with
vegetation that it is difficult to identify features normally
used to aid navigation. I had not expected to use the GPS along
this coastline but it was indispensable. At times the GPS
insisted we travel directly into what appeared a solid
mountainside which at the last minute opened up to allow us
passage to the calm anchorage within.
Pirate Jenny anchored in bay at
Puerto Cruz
We arrived at Bahia Puerto Cruz about 11:30 am, it is a small
but very deep bay and presents a bit of a challenge anchoring.
The center of the bay is over 200 feet deep and remains deep to
within a boat length or two from a very rocky shore. We dropped a
bow anchor in 70 to 80 feet then backed cautiously towards the
rocks taking another anchor to within a few feet of shore by
dingy. By the time we were settled we had over 200 feet of chain out
at the bow and another 100 feet of chain and rode on the stern!
Once I was convinced that the anchors would hold and could pull
my eyes from the jagged rock wall so close to my stern I was able
to look around me to see the reason this small bay was worth all
the difficulty of anchoring. The bay is round with steep hills on
the east and west sides. Two rocky pillars guard the entrance to
the bay and to the south a mountain stream empties it's cool
fresh water into the bay beside a small sand beach. The small
valley was at one time a coffee plantation and though the coffee plants
and buildings are long gone a road way lined by tall majestic
mahogany trees hints of one time grandeur. We walked along the
road a mile or so to a point where the stream crossed over it.
The cool fresh water invited us to return along the stream bed
through the overhanging foliage back to the beach.
At 3:30 AM of the fourth day in Bahia Puerto Cruz with eyes
not quite open we lifted anchor to begin the 35 mile trek to
Carabelleda. The sun rose that morning through a deep haze. As we
passed the commercial port of La Guaira beneath the almost
constant traffic of jet aircraft we realized that the haze was
actually the smog from Venezuela's largest city and capital
Caracas. Carabelleda is in fact a suburb of Caracus. For our purposes
it was a good jumping off point for our passage out to Los
Roques. We stayed in the marina for two days while we topped off
tanks, bought canned goods and fresh meats and vegetables. We
left about 5:00 PM in order to arrive at Cayo de Agua early the
following morning. We expected light winds due to a hurricane well
north of the island chain. By midnight we were motoring in flat
calm under a full moon so bright you could read in the cockpit!
During the night we were joined on several occasions by pods of
dauphins playing in the moonlight. As the sun peeked over the
horizon the low islands of Los Roques were just visible directly
ahead.
Los Roques are a well protected group of reefs, sand and
mangrove islands covering an area 14 by 25 miles a little more
than 70 miles off the coast. Similar to Las Aves only much
larger, Los Roques is an incredible area of calm in the usually
active Caribbean Sea. Sailing amongst the small, low sand islands
in flat water and 15 knots of trade wind is a rare treat enjoyed
by all who visit. Our first anchorage in the island group was at the
far south-west end, just off the sand spit that connects Cayo de
Agua and the island of West Cay. This incredible anchorage is far
enough from the main island of El Gran Roque that seldom would
more than one or two pinairas stop by to drop a few hardy
sunbathers for an afternoon on the pristine beach. At night the anchorage
was all ours! I realize that including a picture of this
anchorage in a letter home to Canada in mid-October could be
considered torture but you have to see it or you would never
believe just how perfectly beautiful it is. We spent several days
here basking in the sun, swimming in clean, clear waters, cooled
by the consistent breeze, awed by the absolute tranquillity and humbled
by the unobstructed canopy of countless stars that illuminated
the night sky.
Though it was hard to imagine that anywhere else on earth
could be a more perfect anchorage, we were anxious to see what
else Los Roques had to offer. We sailed the short distance from
Cayo de Agua to two small islands called Dos Mosquises. The
islands are surrounded by a reef with one narrow entrance with nine feet
of depth. You enter the anchorage by taking a bearing on the palm
trees on Tres Palmeras Island and proceeding slowly with one on the
helm and another on the bow watching for coral heads. It sounds
more difficult than it is but it did make me a little tense when
the depth sounder bounced up from fifty feet to nine feet and the
water colour one that I always avoid. The entrance was worth
tackling for once inside the water dropped to 20 feet and we
anchored alongside three other sailboats in calm clear water in the
lee of the small fisheries and research station on Isla Sur.
Research facility on Isla Sur, Los Roques
Anchorage in Dos Mosquises, Los
Roques
The research station is like a tiny Club Med for scientists. A
few one story cottages built on stilts on the sand beach. The
residents, mostly students, spent their day snorkeling and scuba
diving on the surrounding reefs or assisting in the major work of
the Fisheries component; that of locating, marking and protecting Sea
Turtle nests. When they hatch, the baby turtles are collected and
raised in tanks and when they are old enough to better fend for themselves
they are released into the sea. We very much enjoyed our tour of the
"nursery". Our student guide explained the life cycle
of the three different species of sea turtle indigenous to the
islands and at the end of the tour took us out to the pen on the other
side of the island where we could snorkel to see the larger
turtles about to be released. Though slow and awkward on land the sea
turtle is capable of quite amazing speed and grace in the water.
Prior to becoming a national park Los Roques were very heavily
fished. As a result the population of fish, conch and lobster
have been badly depleted and the reef has suffered a great deal
of damage. Large areas of the park are off limits to all vessels
and many of the out island anchorages require a special permit. Fishing
is limited to rod or hand line and taking lobster and conch is prohibited. Hopefully
these restrictions will in time help to restore the reefs and
marine life in the islands.
Anchorage off Tres Palmeras, Los
Roques
After a few days at Dos Mosquises we continued on our way to
El Gran Roque, the main island in the group. We stopped at Sarqui
and Noronsquis along the way. We traveled only eight or ten miles
each day to allow us time to explore a few of the many beautiful
anchorages. Each day we came closer to the very conspicuous hills
of El Gran Roque. The hills are solid rock and rise over 350 feet
from the water. Quite a contrast to the other islands in the chain
which are sand and rise only a few feet above sea level. The
hills were a very impressive seen through the light haze from our
anchorage on the reef in Noronsqui.
The anchorage at El Gran Roque is alongside the small town of the
same name. This is the only populated island in the group. There
is a small airstrip at one end of town where a surprising number
of planes arrive each day. The sand streets are lined with
brightly coloured posadas and each day boat loads for visitors leave
the island for day trips to the surrounding islands and reefs. Our
first day at El Gran Roque was spent checking in. First a trip to
the Guarda Coastas office, zarpe checked and stamped, then walk
to the other end of town to the Guardia National office, papers
checked and zarpe stamped. We then walked back to the park
office. Here we were told we had to go to the other park office
(at the other end of town, of course) to pay the park fee first
then return to this park office. So, off we went, found the other park
office, paid the park fee (about $40.), papers checked and zarpe stamped.
Then back to the first park office (which by now we knew was really
the second park office) to get our anchoring permit and of
course, papers checked and zarpe stamped. After the check in process
we returned to the boats for a cold drink (there was no longer
any need to explore the town).
View of the El Gran Roque anchorage
from the top of El Gran Roque
Over the next few days we climbed the hill to the old
lighthouse which, like most other navigational aids in Venezuela,
no longer works but offers a spectacular view of the town,
anchorage and some of the surrounding islands. Though the cruising
guide says there are only private clubs and cottages in the town
we found two small stores where we could buy some supplies and several
nice restaurants offering everything from a fresh fish dinner to
pizza.
We spent two days at the incredible beach on nearby Crasqui
island where white sand stretches over a mile along the shore and
out several hundred yards in seven to ten feet of crystal clear
water. I anchored with just a foot of water under the keel and
spent the first afternoon with snorkel and mask scraping the marine
life from the bottom of the boat while small fish swam around me
enjoying the buffet lunch. Later in the day we met on the beach
for happy hour, a backgammon tournament and then a BBQ dinner at
sunset. The soft sand of the beach was so inviting that Tom and
Judy decided to sleep on the beach, under the stars until about
3:00am when the sand flees chased them back to their boat.
Francisquis Island group from El
Gran Roque
We had thoroughly enjoyed our 10 days in the islands but
decided to head back into the mainland and continue on our way to
Puerto La Cruz. First, of course, we had to go back to El Gran
Roque to check out and get a new zarpe from the Guarda Coastas.
Fortunately this process was much less complicated and including
a quick visit to the store for some fresh food we were back on
the boat and on our way by noon. We headed south east from El
Gran Roque within the protection of the 14 mile long Bajo de la
Cabecera (head shaped shoal). At first the path through the
shoals and reefs is narrow and complex with twists and juts everywhere.
Slow and careful travel in good light is a must. Then the shoals
open to an area of completely protected water running north south
about a mile wide and ten miles long, 50 to 60 feet deep with
only occasional, easily identified small shoals dotting the open
water. With the prevailing winds from the east it is a perfect
sailboat slalom course! After a very enjoyable sail we anchored
at Cayo Buchiyaco at the far south eastern end of the reef to
wait for a weather window to cross back to the mainland some 70
miles to the south.
Our intended course to Carenero was 165 degrees (m). For the
next five days the wind blew from the south south east (150
degrees m) at 20 to 25 knots! (For my non-sailing friends, you
can not sail a boat that close to the wind direction). The waves
breaking in the narrow entrance to the reef were horrifying. So
we waited and waited …..and waited. Finally on Thursday September
12th the winds began to ease a bit and the backed to
about 120 degrees. Still a bit close but manageable. We decided
to give it one more day and if conditions held to travel
overnight the next day….Friday the 13th!
Old sailor tales predict disaster for vessels starting a
voyage on a Friday, any Friday, let alone the 13th. Well,
that's all just superstition right? The weather during the day
had moderated considerably from the previous days and the wind direction
held at 120 degrees with the odd gust coming from closer to 100 degrees.
Weather for the whole eastern Caribbean was predicted as good
with shallow pressure gradients, lower than usual wind and wave heights.
We left the anchorage about 4:00pm with the intention to head to Puerto
Frances an easily accessed anchorage just a few miles west of Carenero.
As the sun set conditions were good, a bit bumpy with some confused
seas from the previous day's wind. By 9:00pm the wind was picking up
to 18 to 20 knots from 150 degrees again! I altered course to
keep the wind at 60 degrees off the bow. By 11:00pm we were in a
maelstrom, wind gusting to 30 knots, 8 to 10 foot seas breaking
over us with spray flying everywhere. I had again altered course
to try to make our passage more comfortable. I had only the
staysail and reefed main up and we were often hit over 8.5 knots!
By 2:00am we were about 25 miles off the coast and the land effect
was starting to moderate conditions, by 3:00am we were in almost
flat water with a 3 to 5 knot breeze from the south. We had been knocked
back to the west about 20 miles from our intended course. So in
came the staysail and on went the diesel engine and we motored
the last 30 miles into Carenero arriving around 9:00am.
We had not seen Syncronicity nor could we raise them on the
radio since about 9:00pm the previous evening so we were relieved
to see them the next day around noon when they motored into
Carenero. Tom and Judy in their C&C29 had chosen to hold
their course and beat into the wind and waves it had taken them
over 20 hours to reach Puerto Frances where they had anchored for
the night before proceeding on to Carenero. We spent a day in Carenero
to top up water and fuel tanks and then with a good weather forecast
left early the next morning to motor the final 75 miles to Puerto
La Cruz. A wonderful day of calm breezes, flat water and the sun
awning to keep us comfortable. Until about 3:00pm when a very
distinct squall line passed over us, winds picked up from the
north east at 20 to 25 knots and the waves built to 6 feet and
smacked us to a standstill at every opportunity! By 10:00pm
things had moderated and just after midnight we anchored at Islas de
Piritu to rest for the night. At 4:30 am Judy radioed that they
were just passing the island and had decided to continue the last
18 miles to Puerto La Cruz. We lifted anchor at 6:00am and
motored into Puerto La Cruz arriving just ahead of Syncronicity.
I learned two lessons on this passage; NEVER again will I start a
passage on a Friday and that sailboats need a good strong engine
to go cruising.
Sunrise approaching Puerto La
Cruz, Venezuela
Since that morning almost a month ago Pirate Jenny has been
tied firmly in her slip with water hose and electric cord holding
her ever tighter to the land. Hot showers and a cool freshwater
swimming pool just steps from our bow. After being at anchor for
several weeks it is wonderful to stop in a marina to have that constant
flow of fresh water to rinse and clean the boat, to soak in a warm freshwater
shower, to send all the damp salty laundry to be cleaned, dried
and folded. Ah, what luxuries. After a week at the dock I can
hardly wait to leave. After 4 weeks I'm more than a little stir
crazy. But, let me tell you about Puerto La Cruz and why we've
been here so long.
Pirate Jenny in Bahia Redonda
Marina, Puerto La Cruz
Puerto La Cruz is Venezuela's boatyard. There are at least six
large marinas in the area. Two of these marinas offer very
extensive boat yards and dry storage. There are several marine
stores and hundreds of foreign yachts of every flag and size.
Many boats choose Puerto La Cruz to have hulls painted and
bottoms redone. A good choice due to the dry air, minimal rain
and inexpensive labour along with good quality and inexpensive
Venezuelan made brand name paints. Venezuela is also well known
for it's Caribe and AB Dinghies. After six months of cruising I
needed some parts and repairs to my wind generator (which I would not
do without), disintegrated nav lights (which I can not do
without) and replacement of a mast step that seems to have blown
away on the trip from Los Roques (which I will have to do without because
I can't buy one here). I had also planned to buy a new dingy to replace
my seven year old Avon and to have some stainless steel work done in
preparation for having a new bimini top and dodger made in
Trinidad. Everything takes just a little longer here, a week can very
easily become two or three or as in my case a month.
We have had a good opportunity to get to know Puerto La Cruz,
have explored the El Morro complex by brand new hard bottom
inflatable Caribe dingy. This 'suburb' is built in what was once
a mangrove bay. Now the area has canals laced through blocks of
condominium town houses and multi-million dollar mansions. All the
homes face the water and many have everything from runabouts to
yachts tied to the dock in front of each home. Much of the area
can be traversed by sailboat as the road ways are somehow hidden
and very few bridges cross the waterways. We have visited all the local
markets and found the very best of fresh seafood, fruits and
vegetables. I, of course, have had to inspect each of the marine
stores and have found that remarkably they carry absolutely
everything, except the parts I need. We have renewed our
friendship with many cruisers that we have met along the way and
even finally met up with old friends from Ottawa who have been
sailing in the Caribbean for six years now; Guy and Anita Comeau
on their Corbin 39 "Mallard" have spent the last several
months in Trinidad and are now in Bahia Redonda Marina for a few weeks
before heading off to explore the western Caribbean. During
hurricane season everyone eventually stops by Puerto La Cruz. As
much as we're anxious to get on our way I expect that we will
stop by here again next hurricane season.
Condos in the El Morro development, Puerto La Cruz
El Morro development - a little
more up scale
While waiting on the stainless steel man I have helped a
friend paint his 50 foot, 40 year old wooden boat, helped a good
number of other cruisers with their computer problems, organized
the first (maybe annual) Canadian Thanksgiving dinner and even
managed to do a few of the jobs I had planned to do on Pirate Jenny.
SS Man now tells me he will be finished by Friday for sure,
Saturday at the latest, but sure, sure, sure Monday. Well, it's
hot and sunny and even when it does rain it comes down
pre-heated. We had hoped to go to the Amazon region but delays in
the SS work will probably push that trip till next year. If SS
man is not done by Friday I think we'll go out to Isla Tortuga
for a week for a change of scenery and some good spearfishing.
Then we'll head back here to visit SS man, fill tanks and
re-provision and then head to Margarita Island and plan to be in Trinidad
about mid November.
A special note to my friends on the Ottawa river with whom
Thanksgiving dinner up river has become a tradition; In honor of
our tradition I arranged a dinner at the Restaurant here in the
marina. I announced it over the net for the two weeks before and
we shared a traditional turkey dinner with almost 60 other Canadians and
their friends. The boat names "Mischief", "Daring Adventure",
"Chinook" and "Trendsetter" were symbolically
added to the list.
Hope you are enjoying a beautiful Indian summer.
Best wishes to all
